Question:
How to build a pond out of brick?
birdys.stirling
2008-04-27 04:03:34 UTC
Hi,
Does anyone know how to build a pond out of brick? How do you keep the water in?
Twelve answers:
anonymous
2008-04-27 04:08:01 UTC
You keep the water in with pond liner, which is plastic sheeting.

Not enough space or time here to tell you how to do brickwork, suggest you Google for sites.
djb3500
2008-04-27 07:45:05 UTC
Hi. Allan B's answer is spot on.



I have a few additional points:



If you use pond liner make sure it is made for this purpose. Do not use black plastic or builder's plastic - it lasts for a few months at best.



In the longer time a purpose built hard pre-formed liner will save you a lot of effort and hunting for leaks. Obviously source the liner first and then build the pond ! Most suppliers only have a few sizes and it is much easier to build the pond to the correct spec. A hard liner will last virtually indefinately.



Even good quality beutyl liner (which comes in rolls) will only last about 10 years, and can hole quite easily.



If your pond is partially excavated definately use proper pond underlay and a good layer of sand. Old carpet will rot away and small stones can push through. This applies even to the hard shell liners, but obviously not quite so much.



Water is extremely heavy - even a small pond can weigh several tons and the force on both your liner and walls is significant. For this reason I would get most of your depth by digging a hole - is much cheaper anyway - and keep surrounding walls low.



You can try lining with concrete and using water proof paint, however this is a job for a pro.



Brick is not good at withstanding lateral force, especially if not professionally built so any more than say 50cm water level over the base of your wall is asking for trouble.



I would build in a waterfall - if up against a wall this is just the pump outlet raised and the water running over rocks, wood and planted areas. If you are after something more formal a statue looks great.



Dont get too ambitious with the waterfall - if you have a lot of spray you will have a hard time maintaining water levels.



Make sure that your pipes are either easy to get at or done professionally.



Remember that pump performance is rated with the outflow at water level. The higher you go up the slower the rate of flow. You do need a pump - water has to circulate most of the time or you end up with a stagnant mess unless you have room for a lot of pond area.



Also on the subject of pumps, anything too cheap will cost you more in power in the longer term.



Below is a good very good website - http://www.creativepumps.com.au/zpumps/feed_to_help.htm

with a lot of design tips.



Good luck - be prepared to be planning your second pond the minute the first one is finished - and always go bigger than you first planned !
brokaw
2016-11-15 15:28:23 UTC
Building A Raised Pond
anonymous
2008-04-28 03:43:33 UTC
Read up on bricklaying and cement mixing. Once you've done it remember to keep the inside smooth so fish don't get cut on sharp bits of cement. Also, keep- it away from the sun and before you actually use it as a pond fill it with water and make sure there are no leaks. Filling it with water also helps get rid of all the dirt while you were making it.
Marie
2008-04-27 04:18:37 UTC
i used to have a brick pond, but it wasnt sunken it was raised. we did it by building a wall with breeze blocks in the shape i wanted, cover the edges with an old carpet, cover with a plastic pond liner, fill with water, trim plastic but ensure it goes over the top of the breeze blocks.



build an outer wall from bricks and then place larger more decorative slabs over the top to cover the edge of the liner and create a wider edge to sit on



it never leaked and looked lovely when the plants had grown etc.

enjoy :)
Anthony S
2008-04-30 11:17:47 UTC
I am not going to repeat what everyone has said as they are all good ideas, but if you are going to put fish in your pond DO NOT use concrete. You will not get the fish to live for years. There are chemicals in concrete that will kill fish instantly. It takes several years for concrete to completely cure and support live fish. This is why a pond liner is the only way to go. I would not even suggest you cover concrete in a liner as the slightest tear will allow the fish to be exposed to the chemicals.
washington
2017-01-25 03:45:04 UTC
1
anonymous
2016-03-18 04:43:52 UTC
My husband did that in our garden in cornwall. 15 years later it is still there and leak free. Make sure the rubber on the sides does not get any sunlight on it as it can rot over time. happy digging.
Allen B
2008-04-27 05:09:54 UTC
Sir, I have built three such ponds in my small garden, two for fish and one as a small habitat for frogs which soon found it and they are great for helping to keep snails and slugs down.



The size and shape of the pond depends upon the size of your garden and how many fish you wish to keep. I used cheap, re-claimed bricks. Obviously, you need a level surface. Then lay the bricks out 'roughly' in tiers to see what it looks like and dismantle them when you know what you want in terms of shape. Buy the ingredients for mortar. Experiment with a couple of bricks to see how you can achieve the right consistency of the mix. You can also buy plastic 'formers' to ensure that you get even layers of bricks - and a trowel, of course. I mixed my mortar in an old wheelbarrow. If you are not very good at bricklaying, seek further advice. My ponds are not expert bricklaying in terms of evenness but they don't have to be perfect. In fact, they provide a certain 'rustic charm', especially as trailing plants run over the sides!



Go to a garden centre and buy some of that heavy-duty plastic liner, large enough for the pond. Trim it to size, leaving an overlap at the top tier of bricks, so that water does not leak out. Cut patio slabs on top are great. For a small pond, you can even buy one of those ready-made plastic moulds and build the brickwork around it. Gaps can be filled with soil for planting. My pond looks fantastic when grasses, flowers and marginal plants come up. I did this for one of my ponds and it has lasted for years and is still fine. Do not build a pond up against your house wall as this could cause all sorts of problems with damp and mould.



Buy some gravel (large size at about one centimetre), wash it thoroughly and place a layer of a few centimetres at the bottom of the pond. I used cheap, white gravel, which soon attracts algae and 'colours down'. Makes a good medium for plants such as water lilies - good shelter for fish, too.



You will need a pump powerful enough for the pond size, for filtration and aeration. These can be expensive. Ensure that you have the means to 'trail' the wire, say, around the garden edge, through to an inside mains plug. I fitted my pumps with cheap garden spray devices to achieve great fountains, which can be varied according to the setting you choose. Finally, I placed cheap garden lights in 'strategic positions' for wonderful effects at night. The 20watt bulbs have been going for ten years in all weathers!



When you fill the pond with water, leave it to settle for a few days before introducing fish. Do not buy expensive specialised fish such as koi carp, as they need greater care and are more sensitive to water conditions than 'ordinary' goldfish and shubumkins. These are hardy, even through the winter. I have had mine for years!



These are my 'poor man's' descriptions for sunken ponds. My neighbour bulit a large raised pond, laid on patio slabs. It is rectangular, for ease of building, but being raised, had to have much more careful brickwork, especially as it is designed for people to sit on it (cut patio slabs on the top surrounds).



Some tips about maintenance. You will soon get masses of pond weed. Be prepared to remove this from time to time before it chokes the pond. You can buy slow-growing aeration plants and lilies quite cheaply.



Have the pond in an accessible position where you can reach it for cleaning and changing water and for taking out the pump and cleaning out its sponge and other components. (Switch off the power!) There is nothing worse than breaking your back to do this! You will see when the water needs partial changing. I still use buckets and a garden hose for my small ponds - but it only has to be done every month or so in the growing season.



In winter, the pump(s) may freeze up and you may have to swtich them off for a time. No problem: the fish will survive under a frozen surface - but break it up if it does freeze. You may need some mesh to cover the pond against cats, birds, etc. This is practical if the pond is only a few feet wide. I bought some of that metal grid-shaped mesh which I put over the pond at night. When the pond is mature, fish should have plenty of room to hide!



Sorry for the long answer - but I thought that you might need to know other things, apart from the brickwork. Weigh up the costs of materials and equipment to see how much you wish to pay - or if you can afford it. I 'begged, borrowed and stole'. If you can do this, so much the better. It's a hassle to start with but well worth the results, as for any garden venture. Best wishes.
Bend it like Bender
2008-04-27 04:06:27 UTC
dig a hole, lay it out with plastic to keep it sealed (u might get special pond stuff) and cement
♥§ᶤᵑᶠᶸᶩ♥
2008-04-27 04:07:07 UTC
Sand and cement and a liner inside.
somerandoms
2008-04-27 04:06:57 UTC
make sure it has no gaps.

r anywhere for water to escape.

maybe make a waterproof lining to line the inside.

ask someone at your local hardware store.



(:


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