if a female beta spawns like 500 eggs will you get 500 bettas?

Question

and how many eggs can a female spawn? Can all the bettas be in one tank?

Answer 1

You can definitely get 500+ babies. A breeder friend of mine got over 1000 in one spawn.



Of course they can't be in the same tank together. Males need to be separated after a few weeks and the fry need to be split into several growout tanks or they'll all stunt each other. They release a growth-stunting hormone so there will be several big ones and the rest small if you overcrowd them.



So yes, you can definitely get 500 babies out of a female beTTa, but usually there are a small percentage of eggs that don't get fertilized.

Answer 2

The first embraces are usually dry runs, but soon they will produce from a few to 50 or more eggs. When the female has no more eggs, she retreats and the male tends the nest. At this point most breeders remove the female. The male mouths the eggs, pushes them up among the bubbles and repairs and enlarge the nest. He sometimes will build another nest and move the eggs to it.



The eggs hatch in about 24 hours, but the fry (Betta babies) hang tail-down in the nest for another 36 hours. After that they gradually take on a horizontal swimming position and begin to wander from the nest area. The male keeps watch and does all he can do corral the fry in the nest area. Many breeders remove the male at this point and leave the fry on their own.



I hope this helps.

Answer 3

This article is about the entire genus Betta. For the species Betta splendens which is often called simply "betta", see Siamese fighting fish.

Betta

Betta albimarginata

Betta albimarginata

Scientific classification

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Chordata

Class: Actinopterygii

Order: Perciformes

Family: Osphronemidae

Genus: Betta

Species



B. persephone

B. picta - spotted betta

B. pugnax - Penang betta

B. splendens - Siamese fighting fish

and others (see text)



Betta Bleeker, 1850 is a large genus of small, often colorful, freshwater ray-finned fishes in the gourami family (Osphronemidae). The type species is B. picta, the spotted betta.[1] By far the best known Betta species, however, is B. splendens, the Siamese fighting fish.



All the Betta species are small fishes, but they vary considerably in size, ranging from under 2.5 cm (1 inch) total length in B. chanoides to 14 cm (5.5 inches) in the Akar betta (B. akarensis).[1]



Bettas are anabantoids, which means they can breathe atmospheric air thanks to a unique organ called the labyrinth. This accounts for their ability to thrive in low-oxygen water conditions that would kill most other fish, such as rice paddies, slow-moving streams, drainage ditches, and large puddles. [2]



The various bettas can be divided into two groups, based on their spawning behaviour: some build bubble nests, like B. splendens, while others are mouthbrooders, like B. picta. The mouthbrooding species are sometimes called "pseudo bettas", and are sometimes speculated to have evolved from the nest-builders in an adaptation to their fast-moving stream habitats.[3]

Contents

[hide]



* 1 Food

* 2 Name

* 3 Conservation

* 4 Species

* 5 External links

* 6 References



[edit] Food



Betta fish are not big eaters but should be fed a small amount once or twice a day. They can be fed floating flake food, freeze dried blood worms, live black worms, or frozen brine shrimp.



[edit] Name



There is often much confusion in terminology regarding these fish. So-called "Siamese fighting fish", B. splendens, are frequently sold in the United States simply as "bettas." Fish fanciers are thus often unaware that, as of 2006, there are around 65 species classified within the genus Betta. A further source of confusion is that while the generic name Betta is italicized and capitalized, when used as a common name it is usually not capitalized. [4] The common name of Betta pugnax, for example, is thus Penang betta.

Siamese fighting fish, B. splendens, is often referred to as betta in the U.S., leading to some confusion

Siamese fighting fish, B. splendens, is often referred to as betta in the U.S., leading to some confusion



The name Betta (or betta) is pronounced /ˈbɛtə/.[4]That is, the first part is the same as the English word bet. By confusion with the name of the Greek letter beta, the name is often pronounced /ˈbeɪtə/ in American English, and may be misspelled with one t. The name of the genus is unrelated to that of the Greek letter, being derived from ikan bettah, in a local language in Thailand.[1]



[edit] Conservation



While many Betta species are common and B. splendens is ubiquitous in the aquarium trade, other bettas are threatened. The IUCN Red List classifies several Betta species as Vulnerable. In addition, B. livida is Endangered, and B. miniopinna, B. persephone, and B. spilotogena are Critically Endangered.[5]



The United Nations Environment Programme lists an unconfirmed species, Betta cf. tomi, as having become extinct in Singapore between 1970 and 1994.[6] This likely refers to the extirpated Singaporean population of B. tomi, which continues to exist in the wild in Indonesia and Malaysia as well as in captivity; the Red List classifies it as Vulnerable.[7][8]



[edit] Species



The currently described Betta species can be grouped into "complexes" for conservation purposes. (This grouping of species makes no claim at representing a taxonomic reality.) The complexes are the associated species are:[1] [9] [10]



* Akarensis complex:

o Betta akarensis Regan, 1910 – Akar betta

o Betta antoni Tan & Ng, 2006

o Betta aurigans Tan & Ng, 2004

o Betta balunga Herre, 1940

o Betta chini Ng, 1993

o Betta ibanorum Tan and Ng, 2004

o Betta obscura Tan & Ng, 2005

o Betta pinguis Tan and Kottelat, 1998



* Albimarginata complex:

o Betta albimarginata Kottelat and Ng, 1994

o Betta channoides Kottelat and Ng, 1994



* Anabatoides complex:

o Betta anabatoides Bleeker, 1851 – giant betta



* Bellica complex:

o Betta bellica Sauvage, 1884 – slim betta

o Betta simorum Tan and Ng, 1996



* Coccina complex:

o Betta brownorum Witte and Schmidt, 1992

o Betta burdigala Kottelat and Ng, 1994

o Betta coccina Vierke, 1979

o Betta livida Ng and Kottelat, 1992

o Betta miniopinna Tan and Tan, 1994

o Betta persephone Schaller, 1986

o Betta rutilans Witte and Kottelat in Kottelat, 1991

o Betta tussyae Schaller, 1985

o Betta uberis Tan & Ng, 2006



* Dimidiata complex:

o Betta dimidiata Roberts, 1989

o Betta krataios Tan & Ng, 2006



* Edithae complex:

o Betta edithae Vierke, 1984



* Foerschi complex:

o Betta foerschi Vierke, 1979

o Betta mandor Tan & Ng, 2006

o Betta rubra Perugia, 1893 – Toba betta

o Betta strohi Schaller and Kottelat, 1989



* Picta complex:

o Betta falx Tan and Kottelat, 1998

o Betta picta (Valenciennes, 1846) – spotted betta

o Betta simplex Kottelat, 1994

o Betta taeniata Regan, 1910 – Borneo betta



* Pugnax complex:

o Betta breviobesus Tan and Kottelat, 1998

o Betta cracens Tan & Ng, 2005

o Betta enisae Kottelat, 1995

o Betta fusca Regan, 1910 – dusky betta

o Betta lehi Tan & Ng, 2005

o Betta pallida Schindler & Schmidt, 2004

o Betta prima Kottelat, 1994

o Betta pugnax (Cantor, 1849) – Penang betta

o Betta pulchra Tan and Tan, 1996

o Betta raja Tan & Ng, 2005

o Betta schalleri Kottelat and Ng, 1994

o Betta stigmosa Tan & Ng, 2005



* Splendens complex:

o Betta imbellis Ladiges, 1975 – crescent betta

o Betta mahachai Panitvong, Nonn, 2002 –

o Betta smaragdina Ladiges, 1972 – emerald green betta

o Betta splendens Regan, 1910 – Siamese fighting fish

o Betta stiktos Tan & Ng, 2005



* Unimaculata complex:

o Betta compuncta Tan & Ng, 2006

o Betta gladiator Tan & Ng, 2005

o Betta ideii Tan & Ng, 2006

o Betta macrostoma Regan, 1910 – spotfin betta

o Betta ocellata de Beaufort, 1933

o Betta pallifina Tan & Ng, 2005

o Betta patoti Weber and de Beaufort, 1922

o Betta unimaculata (Popta, 1905) – Howong betta



* Waseri complex:

o Betta chloropharynx Kottelat and Ng, 1994

o Betta hipposideros Ng and Kottelat, 1994

o Betta pi Tan, 1998

o Betta renata Tan, 1998

o Betta spilotogena Ng and Kottelat, 1994

o Betta tomi Ng and Kottelat, 1994

o Betta waseri Krummenacher, 1986



* unassigned:

o Betta apollon Schindler & Schmidt, 2006

o Betta bangka

o Betta bungbihn

o Betta ferox Schindler & Schmidt, 2006

o Betta sukadan



[edit] External links



* Betta at the Open Directory Project



[edit] References



1. ^ a b c d "Betta". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. March 2006 version. N.p.: FishBase, 2006.

2. ^ Marcus Song, Caring for Betta Fish ?????????(Lulu Press, 2006). ISBN 1-4116-9365-5

3. ^ Fernando, Yohan. Betta edithae - a Pseudo Betta?. International Betta Congress Species Maintenance Program. Retrieved on 2006-06-30.

4. ^ a b "Betta". American Heritage Dictionary (4th ed.). Retrieved on 2006-06-29.

5. ^ 2006 IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. they are amazing..... Retrieved on 2006-06-30.

6. ^ Extinctions since 1970. United Nations Environment Programme World Conservation Monitoring Centre (2006). Retrieved on 2006-07-01.

7. ^ Kottelat, M. (1996). Betta tomi. 2006 IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Retrieved on 2006-07-01.

8. ^ Betta tomi. International Betta Congress Species Maintenance Program. Retrieved on 2006-07-01.

9. ^ Species Complex Management. International Betta Congress Species Maintenance Program. Retrieved on 2006-07-01.

10. ^ Betta (TSN 172610). Integrated Taxonomic Information System. Retrieved on 30 June 2006.

Answer 4

Before you attempt to breed your bettas, please ask yourself the following questions:



Do I have the time and patience to take care of the frys (baby bettas)?

Do I have enough room and space to jar the frys?

Do I have enough money for breeding materials and food?

If you answer "yes" to all three questions then we can assume you know what you're doing. Otherwise, please do not attempt to breed them, since breeding can result in 20-300 or more frys. That means you must feed them daily and do water changes weekly for at least 20 or more bettas.



Breeding bettas gives you a joy of watching them multiply and grow to be beautiful and colorful fish, but taking care of them can be tiresome.



In order to breed your bettas, you will need the following materials:



5 or 10 gallon tank

Heater (submergible heater is recommended)

Temperature gauge to read the temperature of the tank

Well-aged water

Indian almond leaves or a Styrofoam cup

Small lamp

Baby brine shrimp eggs and LiquiFry No. 1

Air pump, silicon tubing, air stone and a brine shrimp hatchery

Lots of love and patience

Step 1 - Conditioning the Pair for Breeding

Pick out a male and female betta that you would like to breed and put them in separate bowls. Make sure they are conditioned prior to putting them in the tank together. Condition them by feeding live foods such as live brine shrimp once a day and then frozen or freeze dried foods once a day. Put the male bowl and female bowl next to each other so that they can see one another through the glass for one week. This will stimulate them to spawn.



Step 2 - Preparing the Breeding Tank for Spawning

Use well-aged water by filling the tank up to 5 inches tall with water. Since too much water can cause the male to swim up and down to pick up the eggs and it would be difficult for the frys to swim to the surface for air. Install the heater at the bottom of the tank and adjust the temperature gauge so that the water temperature is about 80°F. Make sure that you cover 80% of the tank so that the temperature stays constant before putting the pair together. Once the temperature is stable, you can then either cut your Styrofoam cup in half and float it on top of the water, or float an Indian almond leaf in your tank. This is so the male can build his bubble nest under either the cup or the leaf.



Step 3 - Spawning

First, release the male into the tank and leave him there for a couple of hours so he can familiarize himself with the environment. Then release the female into the tank and just forget about them for a day. Some people like to float the female in a jar on top of the water and let them see each other for a few more hours before releasing her, but we found that this method is unnecessary if you properly condition your pair beforehand.



The male should start building his nest by the next day. Watch both fish as the male will often chase the female and bite her to prove his manhood. Do not worry if they bite and chase each other around, as this is the ritual of love. Love indeed hurts in their case. At the end of the second day, the female should be ready to breed if she likes his bubble nest, otherwise she will keep running around until she approves of it.



Once she is ready, she will swim head down under the bubble nest where the male is waiting for her. They will circle each other and then the male will wrap his body in a "U" shape around her stomach while she is upside down and help her to push out her eggs. When the female releases the eggs, she will stay suspended for a second or two while the male swims to the bottom and picks up the eggs and blows them to the nest. The female will also help to pick up eggs once she is done suspending. This process will go on for three to five hours. Once the female is done laying her eggs, her stomach will be flat and not as round as before and the male will chase her away from the nest. This is the point where you take the female out gently and try not to disturb the water too much since this can cause the bubbles to break and destroy the nest. Once the female is out, you will need to jar her in a medicated water (you can use BettaMax with the water since it will help her heal her wounds from the biting and fighting with the male and prevent infection).



Step 4 - Hatching

24-36 hours after the female laid her eggs, they will begin to hatch. At this point, you can see the male swimming up and down to pick up the young and bring them back to the bubble nest. If the male shows any signs of eating the frys, you will need to take him out immediately and lower the water to 2 inches, so that the frys can survive on their own. All you can do at this point is watch and wait until the next day.



Usually within 24 hours of hatching, the frys will learn to swim. Once they can swim horizontally, you will need to take the male out gently and jar him in a medicated water just like you did with the female--and give him plenty of foods.



Step 5 - Feeding and Changing Water

Once you take the male out, you will need to drop several drops of LiquiFry No. 1 twice a day to feed the frys. Once they are about a week old, you will need to hatch and feed them baby brine shrimp (do a Google search on how to hatch baby brine shrimp). The frys can survive up to three days after hatching by feeding on its own yolk sac, but when the sac runs out, it will die if it cannot find any foods. From now on, you will need to feed them regularly and keep them warm. Do not touch the water for at least three weeks. After three weeks, you can slowly siphon out about 10% of the water using a small plastic airline or use a simple turkey baster to suck out all the water and yucky stuff at the bottom of the tank. Then add about 15% of fresh water to the tank very slowly.



All you have to do now is watch your frys get bigger day by day. Increase the water volume in the tank slowly as the frys get older. Change at least 25% of the water every two weeks and by the time they're two months old, it's time to separate and jar them. Be careful to separate the males (the male is usually very colorful and aggressive--the female is usually not as colorful but tends to be bigger) and leave the females in the tank since they can live together without killing each other.

Answer 5

no